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I knew there would be surf in Taiwan
but
when I found it I couldn't believe
how good
it could be. The photos below don't
really
show it at its best because I was too
busy
surfing it before the onshore wind
came up.
I managed to catch Ta-Hsi (pronounced
Dar-shee,
thank Wade Giles romanisation method
for
the twisted spelling) at about 5 to
6 feet.
The train to Ta-Hsi leaves from Taipei
Main
Station and costs NT$104 (about AUD$6.50/US$3.25)
and takes about 90 minutes. Unfortunately
Ta-Hsi is a small station and therefore
the
trains that stop there are infrequent.
That
means a long wait between them. If
you want
to get there early during the week
you need
to catch the 4.27am train to get there
at
6am.

Looking south over Ta-Hsi Beach |
Ta-Hsi is what I call a "swell magnet".
It is one of those beaches that are always
that critcal foot or two bigger than the
rest. Honestly, though after I found this
beach I didn't really look at any others
since I didn't have a car. On my first trip
I hired a car and drove only as far as Fu-Lung
Beach which is 2 stations back towards Taipei.
I surfed Ta-Hsi for a few days and found
it consistently had a wave and even at 2
feet was surfable, not exactly super fun,
but still OK. The days I surfed it there
seemed to be 3 predominant breaks, a peak
in the centre with a left and a right, although
the left could close out if it joined up
with the right hander that came off the southern
point. Further north there was a righthander
which I called "Station Right".
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Ta-Hsi railway station |
As you can see from this shot of the station,
the station is about 600 to 800 metres north
of the beach. The rail line runs along the
narrow coastal strip between the shoreline
and the hills. After Fu-Lung Beach the rail
line hugs the coastline, at least for the
next 2 stations which are Ta-Li and then
Ta-Hsi, so you can get an idea of swell size
and conditions along the rest of the coastline.
I have yet to go to Hualien which is a major
tourist point on the north east coast where
there are some more beaches that, on the
map, look to have some wave potential. I'll
check them out in a future trip. Fu-Lung
though, looks like a place to keep in mind
when the swell gets really big. The waves
were only about a foot when I saw it but
it had potential. It looked like the right
handers would probably wind off all the way
down the beach. Fu-Lung is the next beach
to the north. Ta-Li is just rocky coastline
with no beach.
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One of the local beauties, Jenny, my fiance |
The trains come roughly every 2 hours at
Ta-Hsi so if the surf's crap you have a bit
of waiting time on your hands. On one particuar
day, I knew the swell was dropping, so I
planned to go to Ta-Hsi and if it was flat
I was going to walk back to Fu-Lung. I tried
walking back to Fu-Lung Beach but after about
3 hours I gave up. Either the rail line takes
a short cut and the road has a few extra
kilometres because it winds back and forth
around each headland or it is just plain
longer than it looks. The day I tried this
the surf was falt so I thought I would go
for a nice walk along the coastline. It was
pretty picturesque and worth doing. Although
it was quite hot when I did it and so you
can expect to perspire heavily. It made me
a bit of an instant celebrity with the local
road workers who continually waved and tooted
their truck's horns as they drove back and
forth.
Getting to Ta-Li seemed to take longer than
expected, perhaps nearly 2 hours. Anyway
after passi Ta-Li about 30 minutes later
I looked at a sign that looked like it indicated
Fu-Lung was another 18 kilometres! I gave
up at this point because that would have
meant missing the train I planned on catching
and getting home too late. |

Station Right: some good lines when offshore |
So I turned around and walked back to Ta-Li.
It was like a defeat or a DNF
of sorts even
my new found friends in the road
gangs seemed
to give nods of expectation upon
my return.
The local surf shops will hire a surfboard
to you. The going rate seems to around NT$400
per day, which was around AUD$25 at the time,
the echange rate has improved since then.
The surfboards on offer vary in their condition
and design dependant on what is available.
Mostly though it seems that thare just aren't
too many surfers here. There only seems to
be a handfull of local surfers and their
level of surfing is not very advanced. They
can ride waves but they certainly don't seem
to perform any aggressive manouvres on the
waves.
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waiting for the train, they don't stop often
at DaShi |
When I first tried to hire a surfboard, the
day it was about 5 to 6 feet, I was told
by the surf shop owner that it was very rough
and the current was strong. I laughed and
proceeded to tell her that I had surfed waves
twice that size and more and I had surfed
in Hawaii. Upon seeing I was insistent the
shop owner asked me a few questions about
where I came from and so I told her I came
from Sydney. Once she cottoned on the fact
that I came from Australia she changed her
tack and said "very good waves in Australia!"
After all, just about every bit of merchandise
in the shop was Australian product. Sounds
like negligence liability hysteria has also
paid a visit here too! Anyway the board I
hired was a 6'4" rounded square tail.
I took it out and threw it round a bit in
what were some fun waves. Even though quite
few were closing out I managed to pick off
a few long rights that didn't.
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across the road from the station |
I put together a couple of good rides with
a couple of re-entries and some cutbacks.
When I got out of the water I noticed a few
heads checking me out! Obviously they hadn't
seen this style of surfing all that often.
Just imagine I'd pulled an aerial! Or even
a floater. Jenny had told me that while I
was actually on the waves I had aroused interest
on the beach amongst the local surfers. The
local surfers are both guys and girls but
they are fairly laid back, like they don't
compete at all for waves. They seemd to be
into the surfing lifestyle trip which seemed
to be less of an athletic approach. Certainly
it is good for visiting surfers. I spoke
to a couple in the water and one was telling
me about a point that was good in big waves,
so they are willing to share their knowledge.
Some of these surf shops also double as club
headquarters and from the look of it might
even provide rudimentary accommodation as
I saw bunk beds, lockers and showers. Indeed
I used a locker and the showers at one of
these shops. |
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